Late February in the Appalachian Mountains is cold, but hears are warm this weekend in Helvetia, the Swiss town nestled snugly between mountain ranges. This is Fasnacht and you aren’t going to miss it.
On Saturday before Ash Wednesday, townspeople and in-the-know visitors release their cabin fever blues as they chase away Old Man Winter and welcome spring. Fasnacht has its base in Swiss tradition – everyone dons costumes (the scarier the better) for the feast and ball. But it’s evolved to incorporate some of the best Appalachian music and dancing.
You arrive in Helvetia of Friday evening and unpack at The Beekeeper Inn. Innkeeper Eleanor Malloux greets you at the door, and you know immediately you’ll enjoy your stay.
There are no telephones or televisions in your bedroom, but there are checkers on the living room table, books by the sofa, and art supplies to sketch your own pictures.
If you don’t have a costume for Saturday’s masquerade ball, Eleanor will help you search her attic for the right outfit.
After a hearty breakfast, you drive to one of your favorite state parks, Holly River. If ever there was a wonderland for spring and summer camping, this is it. With more than 8,000 acres of dense forests, Holly River is located near the center of West Virginia in Webster County.
Heavy rainfall provides lush foliage and wildflowers such as flame azalea, pink Dutchman’s breeches, Solomon’s seal, trillium, violets and a wonderful variety of ferns. Rhododendrons grace the mountainsides and, throughout the year, their foliage and flowers are magnificent.
The rainfall also contributes to the majesty of the boulder-strewn beds of Holly River and its tributaries, Left Fork and Laurel Fork. Although the park facilities are closed during winter, you’re welcome to stop the car and wander around where you can.
Saturday evening is Fasnacht. The revelers parade through the town carrying lanterns and carrying on.
At the end of the parade, everyone convenes in the Star Band Hall where the sounds of music and yodeling are rivaled by the laughter and enthusiasm of the costumed dancers. Enjoy a feast that celebrates traditional Swiss and Appalachian foods.
Sunday morning, sleep late – but not too late. You have reservations for Bernerplatte, Sunday brunch at Helvetia’s Swiss restaurant, The Hutte. Heated by a wood stove, The Hutte is filled with antiques, but the best part is the hearty, traditional Swiss food.
After brunch, pack your bags and head along country roads to find some late winter fishing. After all, you can’t pass these wonderful trout streams without wetting a line once or twice. A local favorite fishing hole is the Elk River near Bergoo.
As it gets later in the day, the chill winds drive you back to your car. Head for Summersville, where you have reservations at the historic Brock House B&B Inn. Owners Carol and Jim Taylor offer a friendly welcome, and a seat beside a warm, cozy fire in the living room.
This house has quite a history: it was built more than a century ago for the very large musical Brock family, who enjoyed entertaining. One of the more fascinating members of this family was Myrtle, who shocked her family by running off and joining the circus!
At breakfast the next morning, savor the Stuffed French Toast, filled with cream cheese and Granny Smith apples.
Your first stop of the day will be Carnifex Ferry Battlefield, a park that commemorates a Civil War battle that cleared the way for West Virginia’s statehood. Have lunch at the Cornerstone Café in Summersville. It’s in a carefully restored building that was once a bank. You’ll enjoy seeing the lovely renovations as much as you will the food. For the afternoon, you’ve scheduled a tour of Kirkwood Winery. It offers year-round tours and tastings of more than three dozen French hybrids, American varietals, and fruit wines.
The cold weather keeps your appetite working overtime, so you’ll be glad you’ve made reservations at the Country Road Inn in Zela. This farmhouse restaurant features exceptional Italian cuisine that’s served to every guest as though they were part of the Jarroll family. Try to pace yourself through dinner, so you leave room for dessert! End the day with another sweet dream and quiet slumber at the Brock House, and wake up the next morning, ready for another of Carol’s great breakfasts.